Every number on the Florida cosmetology, with its source

282 exact values pulled out of the study guides and put in one place, each one carrying the statute, rule or standard it comes from. These are the figures the exam turns on and the ones people lose points to — the difference between 14 days and 21 days is a whole question.

282 values

Hair Coloring and Lightening

Level scale1 = black through 10 = lightest blonde; describes lightness only, never warmth
Color code, e.g. 7NNumber = level, letter = tone or reflect
Melanin typesEumelanin = brown and black; pheomelanin = red and yellow. Both in the cortex
Underlying pigment sequenceRed → red-orange → orange (levels 5–6) → yellow-orange (7) → yellow (8–9) → pale yellow (10)
Primary colorsRed, yellow, blue — cannot be made by mixing
Secondary colorsOrange (red+yellow), green (blue+yellow), violet (red+blue)
Tertiary colorA primary mixed with the secondary adjacent to it on the wheel
Complementary pairsBlue↔orange, violet↔yellow, green↔red. Mixing a pair neutralizes toward brown
Warm family / cool familyWarm: red, orange, gold, copper. Cool: blue, green, violet — sold as ash, pearl, platinum
10 volume developerDeposit only, no lift — demi-permanent and toning
20 volume developer1–2 levels of lift; standard for permanent color and gray coverage
30 / 40 volume developer30 = 2–3 levels; 40 = 3–4 levels
Mixing two developersEqual parts AVERAGES: 20 + 40 = 30 volume
Oxidizer vs alkalizerHydrogen peroxide oxidizes; ammonia raises pH and swells the cuticle
Permanent color pHAlkaline, above 7
Temporary colorCoats the cuticle, no developer, out in one shampoo
Semi-permanent colorNo developer, deposits only, fades gradually
Demi-permanent colorLow-volume developer, deposits without lifting; the gray-blend and glaze category
TonerApplied to PRE-LIGHTENED hair; pale ash blonde needs the hair at pale yellow first
Double processTwo steps: lighten, then tone
Powder lightenerOff-scalp only; strongest form and it dries as it works
Predisposition (patch) test24–48 hours before an aniline derivative tint; behind the ear or inner elbow; positive = refer to a physician
Strand testDetermines processing time and the result the formula will give
Virgin lightening applicationBegin about half an inch off the scalp; scalp area last, because body heat speeds it
RetouchNew growth only. Overlapping causes breakage and a line of demarcation
Sectioning and timingFour sections; timing counted from when the LAST section is applied
Highlight techniquesWeave = finest, most blended; slice = bolder band; balayage = freehand surface painting; foil isolates from surrounding hair
FillerEvens porosity and replaces missing pigment before going several levels darker on porous hair
Resistant grayTight cuticle, low porosity — pre-soften first; at ~70% gray add a natural/neutral base
Histories that force a strand testMetallic salts (gradual home darkening) and henna — both react with peroxide
Non-metallic bowlMetal reacts with peroxide and the alkaline components, changing processing and result
Absolute stopNo lightener on a scalp with abrasions or open sores; burning during service = rinse immediately

Permanent Waving and Chemical Relaxing

Hydrogen bondsTemporary shape — a wet set. Broken by water
Disulfide bondsPermanent bonds; broken by a perm's reduction step
Perm chemistryWaving solution = REDUCTION; neutralizer = OXIDATION, rebuilding bonds in the new shape
Alkaline (cold) waveAmmonium thioglycolate; room temperature; the stronger system
Acid-balanced waveLower pH; generally needs added heat; gentler
Exothermic waveCreates its own heat by chemical reaction when mixed
Alkaline wave timingMost processing happens in the first five to ten minutes
Under-processed permWeak, limp curl that relaxes within a few days
Over-processed permConditioning treatments and postpone chemical services — there is no chemical fix
Curl sizeSet by ROD DIAMETER. Soft loose wave = large-diameter rods
Concave rodTighter curl at the center of the rod than at its ends
Croquignole wrapEnds toward the scalp — the standard wrap
Spiral wrapUniform curl size scalp to ends — the long-hair answer
End papers / fishhooksControl and smooth the ends; sharp bent ends mean they were not smoothly enclosed
Panel width / base sectionPanel width = rod length; base section = the portion measured for one rod
On-base placementGreatest volume at the scalp
Winding tensionEnough to keep the strand smooth, without stretching
Cotton coilAround the hairline before waving lotion; replaced when saturated
Neutralizing sequenceRinse thoroughly and blot → neutralizer → wait the specified time → remove rods
After a permWait the manufacturer's stated period before washing, commonly 24–48 hours
Perm and color sequencePerm first, then color after the recommended interval
LanthionizationHydroxide converts a disulfide bond into a single lanthionine bond — permanent, irreversible
Lye relaxerSodium hydroxide
No-lye relaxersPotassium, lithium, guanidine hydroxide — still hydroxide, still lanthionization
Guanidine relaxer mixCalcium hydroxide cream + guanidine carbonate activator, mixed on site
Thio relaxerBreaks disulfide bonds; needs an OXIDIZING neutralizer
Hydroxide relaxer pHStrongly alkaline, above 11 — reaching 13 or 14
Neutralizing shampooAcid-balanced; stops the action and restores pH. Rebuilds nothing
Base vs no-base relaxerBase = separate oil barrier applied first; no-base = protective agent built into the formula
Relaxer strengthMild / regular / super — chosen by texture, porosity and resistance. Never by desired straightness
Virgin relaxer applicationStart a quarter to half an inch off the scalp; scalp area last; begin with the most resistant section
Relaxer partingsThin and even, commonly around a quarter inch
OverlappingSevere breakage at the overlapped point — breakage about an inch from the scalp is the signature
TexturizerProcesses for less time — loosens rather than straightens
Relaxer applicatorNon-metallic brush or the back of a comb — metal can react with the chemical
Burning during serviceRinse immediately — relaxer or waving lotion, no exceptions
Keratin smoothing hazardFormaldehyde released as vapor when heated — an operator exposure issue
Absolute contraindicationsOpen sores or abrasions; poor elasticity; metallic dye; recently lightened hair; incompatible chemistry

General Safety and Sanitation Procedures

CleaningRemoves visible debris; kills nothing; prerequisite for disinfection
SanitizingReduces surface numbers only — not the salon standard for implements
DisinfectionKills most pathogens on hard non-porous surfaces, but NOT spores. The salon level
SterilizationDestroys all microbial life including spores; requires an autoclave; a medical standard
Bacterial sporeA dormant, protected form that survives hostile conditions
Antiseptic vs disinfectantAntiseptic = on skin, milder. Disinfectant = on surfaces, stronger, carries the EPA registration
Ultraviolet cabinetStorage for already-disinfected implements. Not a disinfectant
Disinfectant registrationEPA — disinfectants are pesticides under federal law
Minimum efficacy claimsBactericidal, virucidal, fungicidal
Contact timeAs stated on the manufacturer's label; varies by product
DilutionExactly the label ratio — deviation in either direction invalidates the claims
Changing the solutionAt the label's interval, and immediately if cloudy or soiled. Topping up does not restore strength
Removing implementsGloves, tongs or a lift-out basket — never bare hands
Storage after disinfectionClean, covered container, clearly identified, separate from soiled
Single-use itemsWooden orangewood sticks, paper-backed files, buffing blocks, cotton — discarded
Clipper bladeHair removed, then an approved disinfectant spray — it cannot be immersed
Blood exposure sequenceStop → glove → control the bleeding → disinfect the implement
Blood-contaminated surfaceA disinfectant registered effective against HIV and hepatitis B
Blood-contaminated cotton / used bladeSealed marked bag per local requirements / puncture-resistant sharps container
Hepatitis BThe bloodborne virus of particular salon concern — survives on surfaces for an extended period
Standard precautionsEvery client, every time — infection status is often unknown, including to the client
Hand washingBefore and after every client. Sanitizer only if not visibly soiled AND no sink — never after blood
StaphylococciRound, growing in clusters resembling a bunch of grapes
Local vs systemic infectionLocal affects one area; systemic affects the whole body
Indirect transmissionThrough a contaminated object — the shared implement. Interrupted by disinfecting between clients
Bacterial growth conditionsWarm, moist, with nourishment
Head liceClassified as a parasite
Safety Data SheetHazards, handling, storage, first aid — kept for EVERY product used or stored
Decanted containerMust be labeled with contents and hazards; a color code is not enough
Never mixTwo disinfectants — chlorine bleach with an ammonia-based cleaner releases toxic gas
Between-client disinfectionWorkstation surface, styling chair including headrest and armrests, shampoo bowl including the hose
Foot spaBasin disinfected between clients PLUS screens, jets and inlets cleaned on a set schedule
ElectricalFrayed cord = out of service; disconnect by the plug; cords clear of walkways and water
Greatest fire hazardAerosol hairspray used near a heat source
Chemical in the eyeFlush with cool running water and seek medical help
Station responsibilityThe licensee working at it — disciplined personally for violations found there

Client Services, Analysis and Scalp Care

TextureThe diameter of an individual strand
DensityHow many strands there are — independent of texture
Porosity testSlide the fingers along a strand toward the scalp
Resistant hairTightly compacted cuticle and low porosity
Good elasticityStretches about half its length when wet without breaking, and recovers
Strongest reason to postponeA wet strand that stretches and does not recover
Growth patternsThe direction hair grows from the scalp — cowlicks, whorls
When analysis happensBefore every service, on dry hair, before the shampoo
Consultation timingBefore every service, including for returning clients
The most useful questionHow much time she spends on her hair each morning
Reflective listeningRepeating back what the client said to confirm you understood
Confirm before startingThat both agree on the service, the result AND the cost
Most common cause of dissatisfactionA gap between what the client pictured and what was delivered
Shampoo water temperatureWarm, tested and adjusted with the client's comfort in mind
Scalp manipulationCushions of the fingertips, firm circular motion — never nails
Clarifying shampooFor heavy styling product build-up
Acid-balanced conditionerCloses the cuticle the alkaline shampoo lifted, and smooths the strand
Hard waterMineral deposits build up and leave hair dull and rough
Draping by serviceDry cut = cape over neck strip; wet service = shampoo drape; chemical = towel under waterproof cape
CortexContains the natural pigment; where permanent chemical change happens
AnagenThe active growing phase of the hair growth cycle
TrichoptilosisSplit ends — the hair shaft has frayed
Traction alopeciaPatchy loss from sustained tension on the follicles — tight braids at the hairline
Tinea capitisA contagious fungal infection of the scalp — refer
Dandruff requiring referralThe greasy, waxy form WITH inflammation
Head lice found mid-serviceStop, inform the client privately, and refer them
Scalp massage avoidedAbrasions, inflammation or open sores
Scalp treatment timingA separate appointment, not immediately before a chemical service
Record card contentsServices, formulas, timings, results and any reactions
Release formDocuments that the client was informed of the risks. Nothing more
Medications disclosedRecord it and, where a service could interact, ask her to check with her doctor
Pregnancy / minorsNote it, ventilate, suggest she confirm with her doctor / a parent or guardian consents
Face shape referenceThe oval — others are described against it
Corrective styling principleAdd volume where the face is narrow, reduce it where it is wide
Rebooking intervalThe service performed AND how quickly this client's hair grows
Retail basisWhat the client's hair needs to maintain the service at home

Hair Cutting, Shaping and Styling

0 degreesBlunt, one-length cut
45 degreesStacked, wedge-shaped weight line — graduation
90 degreesUniform layers throughout
Above 90 degreesMore weight removed, longer layers
Stationary guideWeight, or increasing length, as sections travel to one line
Traveling guideTaken from the previous section; moves with you — uniform layers
Design lineThe line the whole cut is measured and built from
Head positionA tilted head changes the effective elevation of every section
TensionMust be even — uneven tension gives an uneven line once released
Cross-checkingTaking sections in the opposite direction to check for evenness
Parietal ridgeThe widest area of the head, where it starts to curve
Thinning shearsRemove bulk without changing the length
Texturizing placementAvoid close to the scalp, where short pieces would stick up
RazorWet hair only
Clipper guardThe numbered size of the guard determines the length left behind
Carrying shearsClosed, points down or in a holster; cleaned and disinfected between clients
Dense hair subsectionsThinner, so the guide stays visible through the section
Strong cowlickLeave extra length so weight helps it lie down
Cutting curly hair wetIt shrinks considerably as it dries, so it ends up shorter
Before the first sectionConfirm the length to be removed, SHOWN on the client's own hair
Checking the finished cutDry, before the client leaves — dry hair shows true length, fall and unevenness
Fine hair wanting fullnessA blunt perimeter line, which keeps the ends looking dense
Wet set vs permA set alters hydrogen bonds; a perm alters disulfide bonds
Why a set collapses in humidityMoisture in the air re-breaks the hydrogen bonds
Removing rollersOnly when completely dry — hydrogen bonds re-form as the hair dries
On-base rollerSitting fully within its own section — the most volume at the base
Roller sizeRelative to the section, it decides curl versus directional movement only
Winding directionDetermines the direction the finished hair moves and falls
Pin curl partsThe base, the stem and the circle
No-stem pin curlCircle on its own base — the tightest, least mobile curl
Finger wavingWaving lotion, on damp hair
Comb-out first stepBrushing the set through to relax and blend the curls
BackcombingPushing shorter hairs toward the scalp to build a cushion
Blow-dryer airflowDownward, scalp toward ends, for the smoothest result
Round brush / diffuserRound brush = tension, lift, curved movement. Diffuser = spread airflow, dry curl undisturbed
Finishing hairspray distanceAbout ten to twelve inches from the hair
Thermal ironCompletely dry hair; temperature tested on tissue or a damp cloth
Relaxed hair and heatLower temperature than virgin hair of the same texture
Iron near the rootA heat-resistant comb between the iron and the scalp
Dull, limp hair despite washingStyling product and mineral build-up coating the hair
Braiding tensionExcessive tension can cause traction hair loss along the hairline
Reproducible at homeDetermined by the time, tools and skill the client actually has

Facials, Makeup and Hair Removal

EpidermisThe outermost layer of the skin
Sebaceous glandProduces the oil that lubricates skin and hair; attached to the follicle
Skin type vs conditionType is inherited and fixed; condition is acquired and can change
Combination skinOily central panel with drier cheeks
Dehydrated skinLacks water — treat with a hydrating product that adds and holds water
Skin analysisAfter cleansing, under good light, with magnification
First step of a facialCleansing the skin
Facial massage directionUpward and outward, from the center of the face
EffleurageLight continuous stroking, used at the beginning and end of a facial
When massage is avoidedInflamed skin or open lesions — face, hand or arm alike
Sun protectionUV exposure is the largest controllable factor in skin aging
Depilation vs epilationDepilation removes at or above the surface; epilation removes from the follicle
Permanent hair removalElectrolysis only — and it requires its own separate Florida license
Chemical depilatoryDissolves the hair's protein at the skin's surface; patch test before first use
Depilatory reactionStinging and redness — remove at once and rinse with cool water
ThreadingRemoves hair from the follicle using twisted cotton thread
Wax directionApplied with the growth, removed against it
Wax removalSkin held taut; strip pulled quickly, close and parallel to the surface
Hard vs soft waxHard wax hardens and lifts off without a fabric strip
Wax temperature testA small amount on the operator's own inner wrist
Applicator sticksDiscarded after one application; a fresh stick for the next
Minimum hair lengthLong enough to be gripped, or it breaks instead of releasing
Waxing aftercareAvoid heat, sun and heavy exercise for about a day
Absolute waxing contraindicationSunburned skin in the area to be treated
Prescription topical retinoidDecline the wax and refer her to her PRESCRIBER
First waxing consultationMedications, recent treatments and skin sensitivities
Eyebrow inner edgeIn line with the inner corner of the eye
Tweezing directionIn the direction of growth, one hair at a time
Lipstick hygieneScraped onto a palette, applied with a disposable applicator
Powder hygieneScraped onto a clean palette and applied from there
Makeup brushes / tweezersCleaned of debris and disinfected between clients
Foundation matchingTested along the jawline in natural light
Corrective makeup ruleHighlighter brings forward and enlarges; a darker shade recedes and reduces

Manicuring and Pedicuring

MatrixProduces new nail cells — every plate defect traces back here
LunulaThe visible whitish half-moon at the base of the nail
EponychiumLiving skin at the base of the nail that seals the matrix — never cut
PterygiumSoftened and gently pushed back, never cut
What a nipper may trimOnly dead tissue, such as a loose hangnail
Fingernail growth timeApproximately four to six months to grow out completely
OnychophagyBitten nails — may be serviced
OnycholysisPlate separated from the bed at the free edge, no sign of infection
LeukonychiaWhite spots, usually minor trauma to the matrix
Horizontal ridgesA past interruption to nail growth at the matrix
Refer to a physicianThickened, discolored, crumbling nail; any infection or inflammation; green under a lifted enhancement
Ingrown toenail cornerNever cut it out — decline and refer to a physician or podiatrist
Examined before a manicureThe nails AND the surrounding skin, for disorders or infection
Manicure orderRemove polish → shape → soak → cuticle care → buff → polish
Filing a natural nailFrom the outside corner toward the center, in one direction
Filing toenailsStraight across, corners left square
Base coat / polish strokesBase coat on the natural nail first; three strokes — center, then each side
Pedicure waterTested by the operator AND confirmed comfortable by the client
Pedicure sequenceOne foot at a time, the other kept warm in the basin
PROHIBITED in Florida — callusA credo blade or razor-type callus shaver. Use files and abrasives
PROHIBITED in enhancementsMethyl methacrylate (MMA)
Nail formA temporary base on which to build a sculpted extension
Fill / rebalanceApplying product to the new growth area of a grown-out enhancement
Acrylic removalSoak in the appropriate solvent until the product softens — never pry or clip
Cause of liftingOil or moisture left on the nail plate before application
Electric file riskHeat and over-filing can thin the plate and damage the bed
Metal cuticle pusherCleaned of all debris, then immersed in disinfectant
Paper-backed fileDiscarded after one client — unless it is the client's own, which is returned to her
Manicure tableCleaned and disinfected between clients, with a fresh towel laid down
Lotion from a large containerWith a clean spatula, or from a pump dispenser
Foot spaCleaned and disinfected after every client, with a deeper cleaning of screens and jets on a set schedule
Nail station ventilationMonomer vapor and filing dust are inhaled all day by the operator
Client with diabetesReduced sensation and slower healing make small injuries serious
Home care adviceMoisturize regularly and wear gloves for wet or cleaning work

Florida Laws, Rules and Professional Practice

Governing lawCh. 477 F.S. and Ch. 61G5 F.A.C.
RegulatorThe Board of Cosmetology, within the DBPR
Purpose of licensureTo protect the public from unsafe practice
Training hours1,200 at a licensed cosmetology school
Alternative routeA registered apprenticeship equivalent to the hours
Minimum age and education16 years old, tenth grade completed or equivalent — no diploma required
Licensed elsewhereLicensure by endorsement, with its own requirements; nothing transfers automatically
Hours completed, not yet licensedMay not practice for compensation. No grace period
Inside scopeRelaxers, permanent waving, color, waxing, nail enhancements
Outside scope, alwaysRemoving any growth; diagnosing or treating skin, scalp or nail conditions
ElectrolysisRequires its own separate Florida license — never authorized by a cosmetology license
Specialty registrationsNails, facials, full specialist — separate credentials, each limited to its own scope
SupervisionDoes not extend anyone's scope, and does not substitute for a license
Client health informationRecorded because it changes what is safe, and kept confidential
Correct response to a suspected conditionExplain it needs a physician, decline to advise, do not service the area until cleared
Salon licenseSeparate from every individual license; a pending application is not a license
Working in an unlicensed salonBoth the salon and the licensee are in violation
Salon facility requirementsHot and cold running water and adequate sanitation facilities
NOT facility requirementsA minimum chair count; a separate entrance; particular staffing levels
What an inspection coversSalon license, displayed individual licenses, sanitation and disinfection, equipment and facilities
Inspection noticeGenerally unannounced, and not limited to filed complaints
Station sanitation responsibilityThe licensee working at that station, disciplined personally
Disciplinary powersFines, probation, suspension or revocation — scaled to the violation
TransferabilityA license is personal and cannot be lent, shared or transferred
Misleading advertisingClaiming a credential you do not hold — a disclaimer and staying in scope cure nothing
Where a complaint goesThe state department that regulates the profession — not the owner, not the manufacturer
License displayConspicuously at the work station — a client should not have to ask
Renewal cycleBiennial — two years
Continuing education16 hours per biennium, subjects set by rule in Ch. 61G5 — confirm the current requirement
Change of addressThe department must be notified, for any move. No new license required
Expired licenseDoes not authorize practice. A submitted renewal is not a license; a missed notice is no excuse
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